Where to eat in Gilgit-Baltistan

Some travel to eat, while others eat as they travel. Some hold on to their comfort food as they travel and make comparisons (often negative), while others enjoy treating their taste buds to new cuisines.

I, for one, appreciate and relish the traditional, local eateries and what they offer. Apart from that, I also like being invited to a home in the village and prefer to eat and drink what the natives do every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

More often than not, the Pakistani population prefer meat dishes on the menu. With access to significant waterways, a portion of the territories now have the famous freshwater fish on their menus. So, as you travel across Pakistan, especially Gilgit-Baltistan you will find some of the most amazing places to rest and eat, offering stunning backdrops with rolling rivers, high mountain peaks and scattered trees. There are quite a few appetizing food places offering a multitude of dishes to choose from. Many researchers have discovered and believe that people of Hunza valley, especially (a mountainous valley in the Gilgit-Baltistan region) maintain a pure and healthy diet which is the secret to their longevity and health. The food in this region is pure, full of nutrition and flavour.

Here is my list of Restaurants and Cafés that you must visit and dine in and try their special trademark cuisines.

1- Pizza Pamir

Location: Fort Chowk, Karimabad, Hunza (also at Attabad Lake and Aliabad)

Their slogan, “Bringing the organic taste of mountain herbs from the Karakoram range”, reflects in their pizza. So, if you are looking for great food and a view that you want to remember for the rest of your life, this is the place for you. Pioneers of pizza in this part of Hunza they serve a range of piping hot, pizzas including yak pizza. Not very fond of fast food in the mountains, but their hand-tossed dough with mountain herb seasoning, toppings to the edge and the perfect rich crust tastes perfect. Try their baked lasagne with melting cheese, sandwiches and a range of fresh juices including the traditional Chamos (dried apricot juice). The management and the staff is extremely courteous, respectful and welcoming. The wooden interior, hand woven baskets and art work gives this place a classy look under the illuminated yellow lights.

2- Borith Lake Hotel & Resort

Location: Borith Lake, Gojal, Hunza

If you have this strong desire to take a complete break from everything and need a perfect place to unwind Borith lake should be on your bucket-list. The resort offers more for your vacation than the typical hotel. Enter the dining hall that renders a traditional and elegant atmosphere. With the reception on one side, a bookshelf on the other and a large sitting area, with a gorgeous lake view. Pioneers of setting the trend and passion to showcase books and magazines in their front room, supporting local writers especially, the resort is an elegant blend of mud, stone and wood. Very aesthetically decorated with elevated balconies for a perfect view of the lakeside. Even if you decide not to stay overnight you ought to order their chai (milk tea), french-fries (homegrown potatoes), daal makhni (lentils), spinach and mixed vegetables. Their menu is elaborate and has many local and continental options to choose from.

3- Hidden Paradise Hunza

Location: Karimabad Bazaar and near Altit Fort, Hunza

This is certainly my go-to place to experience traditional, wholesome Hunza food, hospitality and organic products all under one roof. Their aim is to provide organic, sustainable and self-cultivated food staying close to their ancient roots. Passionate to serve and share authentic Hunza delicacies in wooden platters, the management is warm and welcoming.

The elaborate menu consists of my favourites Phitti or Fitti – a crusty whole-wheat bread which is soft inside and baked in fire. Diram Phitti / Fiti – a bread made from sprouted wheat flour which gives a natural sweetness to it and is served mixed with butter, almond or apricot oil. Mulida – made with chappatis, local cheese and apricot oil, Mulida Chhagurum – chappatis are crushed together and mixed with onion, local yogurt (pai) and apricot oil, and served cold. Burustz Barikutz – local soft cheese mixed with onions, coriander and mint sandwiched between chappatis, lightly brushed with apricot oil. Burum Hanik – chappati served with aged butter. The most recognized and widely-eaten dish in the region is Chapshuro often referred to as Hunza pizza. It is made with chicken/vegetable/meat – whole wheat chappati wrapped around meat, vegetable and spices cooked and baked in oven. You may order all vegetarian one too, minus the meat. Tzamik – a creamy dish of potatoes cooked with crushed apricot kernels. Harisa – crushed wheat grains are cooked in stock to make wholesome soup and served at special occasions such as wedding and other Hunza festivals. Sharadi/Garma – which is raw wheat dough thin pitas cooked with china cabbage. I have a series of my favourite soups here too. Qoroth xae Dowdoo is dried cheese soup. Qoroth is a kind of cheese here. Dawdoo Soup is made using stock, cooked with strips of chappati, Batayrin-a-Dawdoo or Haneetze Dowdo is apricot soup, Qaq-e-Moch is dried apricot and noodle soup, Tumurotze Doudo (thyme soup). The place offers the best, most reasonable Chamus (dried apricot juice) and seaosnal fresh juices. So, if you are fond of simple, organic, healthy food this restaurant is sheer bliss and absolutely recommended.

4- Glacier Breeze Café & Restaurant

Location: Passu, Gojal, Hunza

Glacier Breeze Café and Restaurant – House of apricot cake, perched on the glacier moraine overlooking Passu village and Karakoram Highway. The idea of using home-grown apricots in a simple home-baked fluffy, sponge cake works well. Baked and served fresh along with a French-pressed cup of coffee or tumoro (wild thyme tea). The aroma of the famous apricot cake fills the air which makes the almost 120 steps worth climbing. The superb location has the glacier stream rushing besides it with a 360-degree panoramic view of the Passu Cathedrals. Try their lunch menu which has a number of local specialties that are simple but full of flavour. The restaurant offers both indoor and outdoors dining options There is also a camp-site and the hotel personnel can help with hotel rooms too if required.

5- Café de Hunza

Location: Karimabad Bazaar, Hunza

The Hunza Walnut cake served here is a must-eat nutty treat. I love the dense pastry-like cake with a rich honey glazed, walnut filling. As soon as you enter the wooden café, you will find a little shop with a collection of new and preloved books, maps, postcards, shawls, pieces of jewellery, raw gemstones etc. Climb the narrow wooden stairs of Café de Hunza and the aroma of fresh-brewed coffee, baked cakes and brownies fills the air. Unlike the modern contemporary cafés, this place welcomes the visitors with a rich warmer ambiance. They have a corner on the first floor with honey, dried tumoro, homemade jams, an array of organic oils. With a variety of delicious treats on their menu, one must try their chocolate brownie, tumoro and their delicious Kashmiri chai (pink tea) apart from the legendary cake. For breakfast, do order Hunza Muesli packed with roasted almonds, walnuts, brown flaxseed, apricot kernels; dried apricots and seasonal fruits mixed with fresh locally made cream / yogurt (pai), drizzled with organic honey.

6- Highway Food Point

Location: Ghalapan (Mini Switzerland), Hunza

You cannot miss this place if you are travelling towards Sost or Khunjerab Pass (Pak-China border). Bright yellow café stands out at the right spot on the main Karakoram Highway, where you can relax and unwind before driving further.

With a limited but appetizing menu you can refuel yourself with their lip-smacking non-greasy paratha and chai. They also serve french-fries, fritters (pakoras), chai (milk tea), kehwa (herbal tea) and the flavoursome freshwater Trout, that satisfies your palate.

7- Khunjerav Café

Location: Affiyatabad Sost

Located in Afiyatabad, Sost, the café has many options to eat, from traditional to other regional and continental foods. One must stop at Khunjerav Café where you will find the famous special local coffee, the ingredient is a secret! The coffee has a distinct taste and as much as you will try de-coding the secret ingredient you won’t be able to. Enjoy tasting all kinds of local kehwas (herbal teas), chais (milk teas) and locally brewed coffees as you explore. The kabuli channa, daal mash, mixed vegetables and trout are a must try.

8- Highland Cuisine Karimabad

Location: Karimabad, Hunza

This humble looking set-up is a female-run initiative. In its prime years, but promises to offer well-seasoned, fresh, unprocessed indigenous food. Her specialty includes, Chamus (dried apricot juice) and Maltash xae Giyalin (Hunza pancakes) – a mountain crepe made from hand milled whole-meal flour, brushed with apricot, almond or walnut oil, and served with fresh butter.

My personal recommendation is, a freshly cooked Haneetze Barikutz – local soft cheese mixed with chopped nuts, onions, coriander and mint sandwiched between chappatis, lightly brushed with apricot oil.

9- Rainbow Hotel

Location: Karimabad, Hunza

Slightly away from the main market this is a fine place to eat. Enter the wooden structure which is inviting and spacious with a lot of natural light coming through the large windows. The ambience is casual, although it may look upscale but the prices are quite reasonable with good tasting food. The hotel specializes in the type of food that most people like; simple, traditional but delicious dishes. The menu is varied and includes traditional meat and vegetable dishes. Try their soups, spinach and mixed vegetables which is always served with sliced up fresh garden salad.

It is a perfect place to take your family or friends for a great meal.

10- Ruby Juice Point

Location: Karimabad Bazaar

A small out-of-sight café nestled in the heart of Karimabad market, offers some unique beverages; fresh juices, smoothies, cocktails, shakes and teas. Try their seasonal juices especially apricot juice (which you don’t normally find), Chamus (dried apricot juice) and herbal teas. They used to have a couple of distinctive soups on their menu but not anymore. With a few tables and chairs to accommodate a limited number of visitors, this place is clean and orderly.

During summers you will also find homemade organic apple vinegar that you can purchase. It is one of the most authentic products that one can splash out on.

11- Bozlanj Café

Location: Qulha Gulmit, near Polo Ground

Bozlanj café is famous for its wakhi/ Pamirian cuisine, named after an unfamiliar herb, bozlanj. Owned by two women who cook everything from scratch using homemade, homegrown ingredients. A basic modest setup where you often see local boys, men and women hanging out. Order Urzu'q / Arzuq (bread made from flour, eggs, butter and milk) served with Khundha / Qendah (mulberry syrup) which is often eaten with Qisstaa (bread) and homemade melted butter. Other options you will find here are Quruth Moch/ Qoroth xae Dowdoo (dried cheese soup) is a must-have. Qoroth / Quruth is a kind of cheese here which has a distinct, sharp taste. Dawdoo Soup is made using stock, cooked with strips of chappati. Another appealing dish you will find here is Ghilmindi, flat bread that is rolled with sesame seeds and pepper, cooked on a flat pan and layered with apricot oil and homemade cheese.

12- Hunza Food Pavilion

Location: Fort Chowk, Karimabad, Hunza

The place run by women who believe in an all-natural, all organic, authentic local food. This small wooden 6x6 cozy cabin with 6 seats around a table. Decorated with hand-embroidered, cross-stitch pieces they have created mostly themselves. Conscious about food safety, everything is prepared before your eyes with the best, freshest, home-grown ingredients. Try their Maltash xae Giyalin (Hunza pancakes) – crepes made from hand milled whole-meal flour brushed with apricot, almond or walnut oil and served with fresh butter and honey.

The place is also known for Chapshuro (Hunza pizza), made with chicken/vegetable/meat mixed with chopped onions, red chilies, tomatoes, and coriander leaves stuffed in whole wheat chappati. You may ask for a vegetarian one too. Another appetizing dish that is widely served in Hunza is Dawdoo; a soup made from chicken stock, homemade noodles and chicken cubes.

Please Note:

* Not everything on the menu will always be available so be flexible when placing your order.

* Some items on the menu may perhaps take a little more time to cook, so be patient.

A known fact: At higher altitudes, air pressure is lower. When atmospheric pressure is lower (at a higher altitude), it takes less energy to bring water to the boiling point. Less energy means less heat, which means water will boil at a lower temperature at a higher altitude.

* Any complains you have can be expressed in a polite tone. Remember a polite tone and a smile goes a long way!

* The taste may slightly be different from what you are used to, so try and enjoy what the mountains offer!