Your Ultimate Guide to Broghil Valley and Karombar Lake trek: Everything You Need to Know About this Remote Region in the Extreme North
Broghil Valley
Broghil Valley is a high mountain pass along the Hindu Kush mountain range, at an elevation of 3,798 m. It connects the historic Wakhan District of Badakhshan Province, Afghanistan with Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral District.
Trek length 26 km one way
Trek duration 8-10 hrs depending on your speed and breaks
Possible in 2 days
Lake Altitude 4272 m
Lake Width 3.3 km
Lake Area around 2.56 square km
Lake Depth 52 m
Broghil Valley National Park
The Broghil Valley National Park is situated about 250 km from Chitral. The farthest northern part of the valley ends at the Karomber Pass, which forms a boundary between Broghil and Ishkoman Valley. The famous Karomber Lake, known to be the 31st highest lake in the world, is also situated at the Karomber pass and is home to a wide variety of aquatic life. Surrounded by spectacular glaciers, glorious snow-capped mountain peaks and deep gorges, the valley is home to roughly 30 freshwater lakes. This place is perfect for bird watchers and wild life photographers. You will find many wild animals, including bears, marmots, snow leopards, foxes and a range of birds. It is one of the four major mountain passes entering the Chitral District. The others are Shandur Top (Gilgit), Lowari Top (Upper Dir District) and the Dorah Pass (Badakshan province of Afghanistan).
Permission
So, we visited AC Chitral's office for NOC (no-objection certificate) and were told, You are citizens of Pakistan. No need for permission! You are free to travel anywhere as long as you are carrying your original ID cards. No need for NOC from Chitral Scouts Head Quarter in Mastuj either.
This may differ for foreigners. Since, this area is close to Afghan border, military soldiers and scouts check and verify your ID cards and vehicle registrations.
Life in the Valley
Broghil Valley is the ultimate travel destination for adventure lovers, trekkers and nature photographers with its relatively untouched massive green meadows, pristine sapphire and turquoise lakes, snow-covered passes, stunning Pamiri houses and extremely hospitable people. On the contrary, the valley’s remote location and rough terrain makes it a challenging tourist destinations in Pakistan. Most communities in Broghil do not have access to basic amenities and services, which is another reason why this region lacks decent accommodation and restaurant facilities.
What seems on the outside is a mystical valley, rich culture and breathtaking landscape, but in reality it is poor in infrastructure.
The valley is inhabited by the extremely hospitable Wakhi people – an ethnic Iranian group of people whose ancestors settled in Broghil after travelling here from Tajikistan, Afghanistan and China. Since the area is quite remote you will get the perfect Pamir-ian cultural experience. Staying true to their roots, the locals still dwell in their signature Pamiri houses fashioned with mud and stone. Their main source of revenue is selling yaks in the northern parts of Pakistan, especially in Gilgit-Baltistan, where its meat is deemed a delicacy and gaining popularity among the local and foreign tourists.
Before the arrival of winters, the locals of Broghil Valley stock up on food, wood and grass for their livestock. Some move to Chitral to sell their yaks and purchase household items to survive the harsh winters. Once the weather gets cold and the snowfall starts, they spend their days inside their homes.
In recent years, a few small shops have opened in the village, providing the residents with basic necessities.
How to Get There
Reaching Broghil Valley is demanding and exhausting. The easiest way to reach Broghil is Chitral. You can either take a flight to Chitral or travel by road. From Chitral, it will take you approximately 4 hours to reach Mastuj Valley (4×4 jeep).
The route we opted for was Gilgit to Mastuj and along the way, decided to take short breaks and explore as we travel to Chitral. From Gilgit to Khalti Lake its 135.7 km which took us almost 6 hours to reach considering the breaks we took and the road conditions. A night stay before we left for Phander, which is 51.3 km and took us almost 3 hours. Phander is perfect for camping and enjoying fresh trout. From Phander we traveled to Mastuj via Shandur Top which is 91.8 km but took half a day to reach.
Never underestimate travel times on these rough terrains! A night stay in Mastuj is a must to rest, to draw money (if the ATMs work you are lucky!) and to purchase food items and supplies that you may need on the way.
Note: Instead of Mastuj you can take an alternative path from Darkot, Yasin valley.
Power can be your next over-night stay option. Power is roughly 5 hours from Mastuj. Power to Yarkhun Lasht is 38 km which takes 5 hours to reach, depending on your type of vehicle and speed. Yarkhun Valley is isolated with practically no tourist infrastructure except for a handful of hotels. Carry your camp, sleeping bag and food is a MUST for traveling here. Final stop Lashkrgoz!
A four-wheel-drive is more or less mandatory, because roads generally aren't paved here. Lashkargoz is where the traditional polo festival is held each year and Wakhi people from the entire region participate.
Where to Stay
Unfortunately, there’s one guesthouse in Lashkargoz, the last village of Broghil, which is owned by a local in the area. The weather is unpredictable, therefore, it is recommended that you stay at the guesthouse instead of pitching your tents. Having said that, like anywhere else in this region, having your own camp and food is essential.
I don't have good reviews of this place, but apparently it's the only place with a decent washroom service available only IF you choose to stay here. Yeps! that's the deal!
Best Time to Visit Karombar Lake
June – September are the perfect months to visit this area. We visited Karombar Lake in the last week of June, 2022. It was bright and sunny, clear blue sky, not very warm during the day but extremely cold at night. So carry your thermals and warm clothing, and camping gear.
Karombar Lake Trek
The actual trek starts from Lashkargoz. Trek to Karombar Lake is the main reason why many adventure seekers travel to Broghil valley. The lake is the second highest naturally active lake in Pakistan and 31st highest in the world at an altitude of 4,272 m (14,016 ft).
The trek from Lashkargoz is 26 km one way. It will take you roughly 8 – 10 hours before you reach Karombar Lake, depending on your speed, weather and the breaks you take. Said to be one of the easiest treks, since it's a meadow but with steadily rising slopes it's long and tiresome. Horses, mules, donkeys, yaks are also available on the route for luggage and riding.
Remember: If you are just embarking on your journey: take pleasure from it. Savor every minute. Remember your real goal, the thing that brought you out of your comfort zone in the first place, and fight hard for it. If you make it all the way to the end, then you will have done a beautiful thing. Just remember: the end can be anywhere, and you get to choose it, so choose wisely!
Apart from Karombar, there are several small lakes in between the mountainous highland. To reach them, you will have to go a little off track. Once you reach Lashkargoz, you will have to hire a porter. Charges may differ according to the time, days and season. The locals here use donkeys, horses or yaks for travelling and transporting goods.
After 2 hours of walking our porter suggested we stop and refuel. So, we took a short break to enjoy local pai (yogurt), black tea (good for headaches on high altitude) and a conversation with the shepherds. This is the last human settlement before you head to Karombar and this is the height of hospitality - offer whatever you have!
Snow-capped mountains sunbathing in golden gleams, women tending the herd, children playing football with a punctured ball - a perfect morning and a cup of black tea rejuvenated me to continue trekking.
Every few kilometers on this path, one comes across a new pasture which is used as the grazing land for yaks.
On the way you will come across abandoned shepherd's huts where you can rest, relax and cook. Best food options on a trek are, bread (Phitti - local bread), instant noodles and soup, boiled potatoes and eggs.
As you walk further into absolute silence and solitude, although half-dead, you can't help but appreciate the majestic panoramic view of the mesmerizing mountains and a couple of lakes you see in the distance.
The real heart-stopper is the lake, as you move closer you are overwhelmed by the grandeur of this marvel of nature. The water was still and the grand snowy mountain around the lake reflecting in it.
We had walked a total of 10 hours, climbed 4,272 m, and were exhausted to the core. But the sudden change of scenery made us forget the aches and pains as we covered the last 200 meters of the meadow practically running. We felt extremely proud of ourselves, after completing that day’s climb. It simply made me aware of how much further I could push myself after reaching my breaking point - the point where on several occasions I felt I must quit.
The absolute joy of accomplishing such a feat did transcend all the suffering I encountered. I want to experience new challenges, test my limits and come back tougher than before.
As they say: “No pain, no gain!”
Memories of the Tragedy we came across
This is the part of my blog I wish I never had to write.
This is Zakeera (Za-kee-ra), almost 4-years-old. We met her at shepherd's hut on our way towards Karomabar Lake. We took a short break to enjoy local pai (yogurt), black tea and a conversation with the shephards. A middle aged lady holding Zakeera close to her, came to us asking for medicine. Upon inquiring we found out that the little girl had intense respiratory issues at 4000 m. Unfortunately, we weren't carrying the right medicines to help her. Since they are Wakhi speakers our tour operator Mujahid Ali sincerely suggested that the altitude is not right for the toddler and she must be taken to a warmer place where air pressure isn't so low. This child was in agonizing pain, wheezing and gasping for breath; barely able to move her hand to greet us. The family had no choice but to keep the child in a shepherd's hut with little to absolutely no ventilation. Her mother was up in the pastures and her father, a soldier, was posted in Waziristan. These huts are made of stone, mud and wood.
There is no light and no appropriate heating system; except a space for a pot belly stove, intended for basic cooking and warmth, bed and sitting area. Broghil's remote location and rough terrain makes it a challenge for local communities to have access to basic amenities and essentials of life, especially a decent medical facility with a proper trained staff and medical supplies.
The very next day, we stopped at the same shepherd's hut before trekking down to Lashkargoz and Zakeera's uncle whispered, she didn't survive the night.. and his voice trailed off..
She stopped breathing. Died. In that little shieling. In her loved-ones arms...
So many thoughts rattled my mind, so many questions multiplied in that moment...a wave of profound sadness, despair, shock and intense guilt and regret took over. Kept thinking about her parents and family - their loss, their helplessness with no access to any health facility.
There are a few Basic Health Units and Rural dispensaries but not at convenient distances. People from Agha Khan Health service Chitral did contact me and asked for details after I returned and raised the issue. They listened to the entire ordeal, took notes and assured me that they will look into the matter.
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